An Introduction To Macro Photography

An Introduction To Macro Photography


Good day. Welcome to the Great White North. If you’ve been following this channel, or maybe you’re a subscriber – which is appreciated, you may notice that things are a little different. The prairies are gone. Welcome to the temperate rainforests of
Canada’s West Coast. There’s also a new four-legged production assistant: Cousteau, he’s pretty dedicated to his own craft. Moving on. Macro photography, it allows you to explore and share worlds you never knew existed, but it’s often viewed as complicated and somewhat overwhelming – filled with magnification ratios, extension tubes, focusing rails – but macro photography doesn’t need to be so daunting and it can be quite a lot of fun. So, in this video I’m going to cover the basics so you can get started and enjoy macro photography. To start things off it is important to understand a few key pieces of terminology related to all photography – but even more important when working with macro. and the first of which and probably the most important is magnification. Now, the magnification of a lens is expressed as a ratio – and the best way I can explain magnification ratio is that it’s the ratio between a subjects actual size, its physical dimensions – and the size that said subject is projected onto your camera’s sensor. For example – let’s say you’re photographing a Pacific chorus frog. Not too big, ten by twelve millimeters. and you’re using a lens with a magnification ratio of 1:5 and you’re shooting with a full-frame sensor, So, twenty-four by thirty-six millimeters. With that 1:5 ratio. the frogs projection on the sensor is two point six millimeters in width. Not exactly big. So, if you increase the ratio – 1:3 the frog’s projection grows to four millimeters in width. Increasing the ratio again – 1:2 the projection grows to six millimeters in width. And at 1:1 the frog’s projection becomes life-size. So, it is ten by twelve millimeters in real life and when projected onto that sensor it is ten by twelve millimeters. So, this 1:1 or life-size ratio, it’s important – because technically speaking any ratio smaller – is not macro. Moving forward. Increasing the ratio again – 2:1 the frog starts growing, or its projection starts growing. It becomes twenty millimeters when projected on that sensor. At 3:1 it becomes thirty-six millimeters in width. That covers the entire width of the full-frame sensor. At 4:1 – gets even bigger And at 5:1 the frog’s projection covers the entire frame. Hopefully this gives you a good understanding of what magnification ratios are all about. The next thing you’ll want a firm understanding of and something that plays a very large part of macro photography – is minimum focusing distance. And although a lot is described in the wording. It is something very frequently misunderstood. Yes it is the minimum distance required for a lens to focus properly. but it’s not referring to the distance between a subject and the end of a lens. but rather the distance between a subject and your camera’s focal plane – and your camera’s focal plane is marked by a little circle with an intersecting vertical line and this indicates the position directly in front of your camera’s sensor. Now, we have a 70-200mm lens and it’s minimum focusing distance is 150 centimeters or roughly 59 inches – regardless of the focal length. So if we line this up with the camera’s focal plane. 59 inches stretches out of frame – and ends up way over here. And not exactly close and not exactly a powerful option for macro photos. So, instead using a macro lens – a 100 mm macro lens. With a minimum focusing distance of 30 centimeters or 11.8 inches, conveniently the length of a ruler. Lining it up once more. Clearly, you can get your lens a lot closer to a subject and when combined with a high magnification ratio it clearly illustrates how powerful of a tool – a macro lens can be. The final important piece of terminology is depth of field. And hopefully depth of field is something you’re already somewhat familiar with, but because it’s something I talk about quite a bit throughout this video – it’s worth reviewing quickly. Depth of field is the distance between the nearest and the furthest points of an image where objects are acceptably in focus – or sharp. So, imagine depth of field as a three-dimensional box. Everything inside the box is in focus and the size of the box is determined by your lens’s aperture – plus one or two other variables that I’ll touch on in a minute. So, with a small aperture that’s a high f-stop – you have a large depth of field. The box is quite large and a lot of your images in focus, but this requires a lot of light. So, with a large aperture, that’s a small f-stop you have a very shallow depth of field. There’s not a lot of your image infocus and this allows in a lot more light. Without question the biggest challenge you’ll be facing when capturing macro photos – is not having a large enough depth of field. this is especially true when using large magnification ratios, when the depth of field essentially becomes a sliver. There are two factors contributing to this depth of field dilemma. First: long focal lengths inherently have a small or a shallow depth of field and wide focal lengths have a large depth of field. Second: depth of field becomes larger when focusing on a subject at a considerable distance from your focal plane – and then depth of field becomes smaller when focusing at or near the lens’s minimum focusing distance. To clearly illustrate how depth of field is impacted by focal length and focusing distance, I have two lenses here. A 35 mm and a 100 mm. Both have the same minimum focusing distance of 30 centimeters. Using an aperture of f/2.8 the 35 mm lens at its minimum focusing distance has a depth of field of 11 millimeters. Whereas, the 100 mm lens at the same minimum focusing distance and with the same aperture of f/2.8 has a depth of field of one millimeter. Maintaining the f/2.8 aperture, but doubling the focusing distance to 60 centimeters. The 35 mm lens now has a depth of field of 47 millimeters, but the 100 mm lens still only has a depth of field of 5.1 millimeters. The difference in depth of field between these two lenses hopefully shows you just how challenging it can be to create macro images with the majority of a subject in focus.. You may now also be questioning if long focal lengths produce a small depth of fields – why don’t macro lenses use wide focal lengths? Well, a macro lens with a long focal length , moves the minimum focusing distance further from the end of the lens while maintaining that 1:1 magnification ratio – and this creates a large working distance and that can be rather beneficial. If you’re trying to photograph an insect that is easily startled – you don’t have to be as close – there’s less of a chance that that insect will fly away – or crawl away. If you’re photographing something that is potentially harmful to yourself – you don’t have to be as close and put yourself at risk. Not being as close to a subject also reduces the chances that you or your camera shadow’s will obscure any important and valuable ambient light. Because depth of field is so small when focusing on subjects close to the focal plane – macro photography is heavily reliant on small apertures to produce a large depth of field, and that requires a whole lot of light. There are two basic means of delivering this necessary light, and they essentially divide macro photography into two distinct shooting styles. What I would consider the first basic shooting style of macro photography is handheld shooting – and this is the most flexible option. You can recompose your composition as quickly as you can move your camera in your hands. It’s ideal for following flight in insects around your backyard or through the undergrowth of a forest. However, without the stability of a tripod you need to be using faster shutter speeds, which require even more light. Meaning you’re going to be adding light and using higher ISO’s. and one challenge of adding on-camera light is – macro lenses end up very close to the subject and often the on-camera light is eclipsed by the end of the lens and no light actually hits your subject. And that isn’t to say an on-camera light can’t be made to reach right in front of your lens. There are quite a few do it yourself options out there to create a macro light snoot and although many of them look rather janky the results are quite clear. Ideally though you’d be using a proper macro ring light or dedicated lens mounted macro lights and those work perfectly for running around and keeping both of your hands on your camera. Yours definitely doesn’t need the breakfast cereal and cracker box construction. This is simply to show you the difference moving light in front of the lens can make. So, this first photo is with the super posh homemade light modifier slash snoot – and the second photo is with just the on-camera light. If you decide to do some handheld shooting focusing becomes a bit tricky to say the least. Because depth of fields are so small at close focusing distances – autofocus is not usually a practical option and even manual focus requires a bit of practice. I find it best to set your lens at a predetermined focusing distance and then slowly move yourself back and forth until the subject appears in focus. So, in this example I’ve got the lens set to its minimum focusing distance – so, I get that one-to-one magnification ratio and then looking a little tipsy as I do so I will rock back and forth until this spider is exactly in focus. And those extra frames are just to guarantee that at least one of those shots has the focus exactly where I want it. If you’re not photographing a moving subject and you don’t need to quickly or frequently change the composition – put your camera on a tripod. This is what I would consider the second basic shooting style of macro photography. And the most significant benefit of using a tripod for macro work, like all photography – it enables you to use him considerably slow shutter speeds while relying on natural light. In turn this gives you a chance to use a small aperture giving you that big depth of field you’re after. Another advantage of the tripod – you can be a bit more creative with the positioning of external light should you choose to add any. And best of all, you no longer look like a drunken sailor when it comes time to focus. Instead enable live view – relying on auto or manual focus, but to double check magnify the image as many times as possible and use manual focus to make minut changes until the focus is exactly where you want it. When you’re happy with the focus – fire off your frames. Another great benefit of using a tripod, it allows you to use focusing rails and focusing rails allow you to maintain a magnification ratio but move the camera further or closer to your subject. Whether by using a tripod and long exposure or by placing a flash mere centimeters from your subject. With seemingly infinite light, you may be inclined to use your lenses smallest aperture to create the biggest depth of field possible. And this line of thinking isn’t incorrect. However, you will quickly encounter the negative impact of diffraction. Diffraction occurs when light passes through a small opening and then bends around the exiting corners – taking it away from its original path
just slightly. To illustrate this more clearly pretend that the nozzle of this spray bottle is a lens aperture. The water inside is light and this piece of paper is a sensor. Now, if I have the aperture / nozzle wide open, let’s call this f/1.4 the light passes through the aperture making contact with the sensor in a clean defined point. However, stop down the nozzle / aperture, let’s call this f/22.0 and the light now passes through the aperture making contact with the sensor in a messy non-uniformed sense – and this greatly reduces the sharpness of an image. Now, diffraction takes hold at differing apertures with different lenses. Some lenses may see noticeable diffraction at f/16.0 while others may retain sharpness all the way to f/22.0 For example I have my Canon 100 mm lens here and you can see that photos remain sharp from f/2.8 all the way to f/16.0 at which point diffraction begins to appear – and beyond f/22.0 I wouldn’t consider those photos usable. When you’re adding lights to a macro composition you should make every effort to diffuse your light. It’s really surprising how many insects have a glossy carapace or reflective eyes and how many plants have a waxy semi-reflective leaf or petal to them. Personally I use a proper softbox. It does the job just great, but there are plenty of do it yourself options out there – that work just as well. I’ve tried tracing paper – one of my personal favorites is the transparent plastic that milk jugs are made out of – that works quite well. Now, I have a water droplet on this salal leaf here – and a water droplet is a pretty extreme example of something reflective, but it’s going to demonstrate the difference between a bare light and a diffused light – perfectly. So, the first photo I’m taking with a bare light. Right away I can see there are tiny little white rectangles within the water droplet and that is the reflection of the bear flash head. So, moving to the diffused light. Right away I can see that those white rectangles in the water droplet are gone and the light is a lot more pleasing overall. One thing to remember when diffusing your light is to increase the tower output just a little bit to compensate for the light lost by the diffusion. At this point it’s worth emphasizing that anyone with a sound technical understanding can produce a macro photo that’s in focus, but it takes creativity, experimentation and ultimately failure to create macro photos that are truly engaging. There is little point in me listing off compositional theories, but suffice to say that macro photography it doesn’t differ compositionally than any other photographic genre. If you’re just starting to explore the world of macro, I would suggest you pay attention to two things: perspective and backgrounds. Consider how perspective influences how scale is perceived. If you photograph a subject from above it will look small but if you get down to its level – it will look and feel larger-than-life. Granted many macro subjects are close to the ground and getting down to their level can be a bit tricky. But if you pull it off successfully, the awkward yoga positions are worth the while. Backgrounds are often completely forgotten about – and often you’re putting so much light on a subject that the background is underexposed and completely black. Some people don’t mind the look of the black background, but try adding a bit of light and texture to the background – just to see if it improves your composition. When you’re composing a macro photo try to remember that your depth of field is linear. So, if your subject happens to be flat or at all straight – try to keep your focal plane parallel to the subjects length. In this example I have a fern frond here and you can currently see how the edges of the frond are not in focus – but if I move the camera’s focal plane to become parallel with the frond: the depth of field now encompasses the entire fern frond from edge to edge and it’s all in focus. It’s not the very last thing, but I’ve left the subject of gear towards the end of this video because, macro photography only requires two things: a camera, and most importantly a macro lens. a flash and a tripod are helpful, but by no means are they a necessity. If you’re just starting out your first macro lens – it shouldn’t be anything overly extravagant. Most manufacturers offer 50 mm macro lenses that can produce a one-to-one magnification ratio – and a 50 mm focal length will give you a slightly larger depth of field than a macro lens with a longer focal length and that’s helpful when you’re learning. An alternative you may be considering right now is a combination lens – a telephoto zoom lens that claims to have macro capabilities. Don’t fall for the marketing. Remember if it doesn’t have a one-to-one magnification ratio – it’s not a macro lens. Extension tubes may seem like an inexpensive alternative for jumping into the world of macro. but the light they take away – is usually more frustration than benefit. In regards to cameras there is no one camera type that is better suited for macro photography. However sensor size does impact how macro photos are captured. With a full-frame sensor you can push your ISO is relatively high while using a small aperture, but its depth of field is comparatively small. Whereas, an APS-C sensor has a slightly larger depth of field and it’s crop effectively increases magnification ratios of a macro lens. And a micro 4/3 sensor takes things even further. It has a fair-sized depth of field right out of the gates and once again is crop factor increases magnification ratios – and then there’s diffraction. Just as diffraction becomes apparent at differing apertures with different lenses – diffraction becomes visible with different sensor sizes. With that micro 4/3 sensor diffraction may become noticeable at f/8 or f/11 Whereas, an APS-C sensor may retain detail to around f/16 and with a full-frame sensor diffraction doesn’t usually become noticeable until f/22. Finally, there’s resolution. If you plan on pursuing macro photography intently you should look for a high resolution sensor, because in the world of macro detail is king. The last thing to talk about is something I feel needs to be talked about more frequently and more openly – and that is the matter of ethics. Just because a macro subject is small enough to pick up and position exactly as desired – Doesn’t mean you should do so. Would you capture a fox to bring home just a photograph in a studio setting? Would you put a cheetah in a refrigerator so that it moves more slowly? Would you glue a bear’s paw to a tree so that it stayed put? Would you spray a cougar with water to create interesting reflections? These ideas that seem ridiculous when thinking about large animals. But many macro photographers go to extreme lengths just to get that perfect photo – and they often harm their small subjects. And it shouldn’t stop with the subjects either, as a macro photographer you should be respecting your subjects environment – their habitat. Would you cut down trees that were a distracting foreground element when photographing a moose? Then why do so many macro photographers bring scissors to cut down grass and foliage that may be obscuring that perfect butterfly photo. As a macro photographer I implore you to show these small subjects the same respect you would give to any other megafauna. With that I’ll wrap things up. If you’ve liked this video – click like. If you have a comment, a suggestion – you just want to say hi – put it down below. Thanks for watching and I’ll see you next time.

100 Comments

  • Md Habib says:

    Thanks

  • FrederickTCold says:

    I have wanted to do macro photography since I was a kid, and now here at 45 finally getting to. Kid again. Lot of great information here, thanks.

  • Tim Ransome says:

    Excellent video – out of interest, how did you light the video shots?

  • Roderick Niblett says:

    Off topic……he used janky….lmao

  • drdj69 says:

    can you tell me what is the best affordable macro lens for 6d mark2?

  • JulianeBiologist says:

    Wow! Absolutely wonderful. ❤️ Macro photography!

  • Hans Baier says:

    I think macro is such a misnomer. Shouldn't it be called Micro instead? Like in Macroeconomics vs Microeconomics… Thanks for the great video BTW!

  • Alex Camilleri says:

    Thank you for the video and for the ethics section at the end

  • Dean Fleischman says:

    Extremely informative with superb production values.

    I loved the video of the subjects, but it would have been nice to see an exceptional macro still of each…

  • oTURLo says:

    The zoom in in live view was a fantastic tip. I didn't even know you could do that.

  • Richie C. Hayes{h2br} says:

    I just started macro photography and am guilty of plucking grass etc. LOL! I won't do it again. But I did ask the grass to forgive me.

  • Jamesha Hyderali says:

    Excellent excellent explanation Neil

  • Edward Bell says:

    Starting to get real serious about photography. Took lots of notes. Ready to explore..

  • invertebrategram364 says:

    Are you able to offer any introduction in photographing tarantulas and scorpions?

  • Rafael Xenes says:

    Great video!

  • Sherwin Baptiste says:

    Excellent video 👏🏽

  • ياسر العلياني says:

    I want to buy a macro lens, would you recommend buying a Canon 100M lens or a 90mm Tamron lens?

  • toma hasan aydin says:

    very good video for macro beginners
    i really liked it
    and thanks for it
    but 2 things i want to say

    first , i think ethics are the most important part of all photography
    but when it comes to insects or small living things, it is much more important
    becouse you can kill an insect just by touching it, even gently
    thats why i think that would be better if that part was at the begining of the video

    second, yes the most common way to start shooting macro is getting a dedicated macro lens but there are some other cheaper and very effective ways as well, like reversing lenses or close up filters etc for beginners and for pros

    thanks for the video again,

  • chorton53 says:

    I loved this video. Thanks for the tips.

  • liam slavin says:

    Di-fuse? lol

  • Himanshu Sharma says:

    Awesome editing bro
    SUPER HARD BRO

  • Hakop D says:

    Hey Neil not sure if y’all see this comment but I just stumbled to your channel and I can tell you love and understanding micro photography. Recently I invested in a good micro lens for product photography(jewelry) but still working on camera settings and lighting to get the perfect shot. Do you have any recommendations how to execute this? Thanks and I just subscribed, great videos!

  • Chris Dunford says:

    Good video. I am just learning macro and it helped a lot. Also I'm glad you talked ethics. Needs doing more for all wildlife and nature photography

  • Onyx Lee says:

    Wow! I don't usually say this lightly. The quality of this tutorial is the top notch. All the concepts and ethics are covered with just enough details and core principles, no bullshit and fillers. This video will now become my highest standard of making any video tutorials, no matter the topics

  • Jane Maas says:

    Great teaching video. I will be watching and rewatching! Thank you.

  • MAKSTR says:

    5:49 very hard to read data as it's right on the play line can't see it properly.

  • Shyam kukadia says:

    Nice informative and technical understanding Neil. i believe you are in BC, do you know anyone in Toronto to be with for Macro Photography learning?

  • Elan Sun Star Photography says:

    I have shot hundreds of covers and big ads. but getting tips on macro is an entirely new thing for me. love how short it is and how much you get in… note with tripod an extension in the form of say a book would help get the camera close. very goo data you have here. macro makes me feel like a beginner again….

  • Pom Pom Mom says:

    Great video.

  • Graham Gall says:

    Thanks Neil – great video – very clear and well presented. Hi from Australia!

  • tectorama says:

    The is also a world of difference between taking macro shots in the field, and in the studio. If I am out doing wildlife photography, I usually have my 200-500 lens fitted. Even this lens allows me to get some great close up
    shots of insects, with a great depth of field.

  • Neil Sanabria says:

    Awesome and informative video Neil. Thanks

  • alborada777 says:

    Great and useful tutorial. Thanks for the upload…

  • JohnJBH says:

    Great video. Very informative.

  • Ekaterina Mavro says:

    Love the last words about respecting the subject ❣👌

  • alan alain says:

    Very well thought, informative video, and I couldn't agree more with your ethics and respecting nature. One fun aspect of macro you didn't mention though, but may be for its constraints or mixed results, is the reverse macro trick. For the ones on a budget or wanting high magnification is reverse macro. More on that:  Let's say you have a X-brand/Canon/Nikon dslr of some kind and a cheap 50mm lens (or other, the wider equals bigger magnification – a 50mm on Fx will be 1/1 , a 24mm will give 3+/1 ratio), just buy the cheap adapter ring (reverse mounting ring- specific to each  filter thread size of lens used), mount your lens reverse on it , the whole on the camera and voila. Lot of fun but all manual though, no auto or manual focus there. Moving your body to the subject as the video explains is the key. Getting deeper in that method, there are ways to set a wanted aperture on modern lenses with the camera when later used in reverse mode (lens on camera mounted normally, set aperture manually, use AEL, remove the lens now set with aperture at given choice for use later in reverse mode), and the often cheap older lenses (think flea market find for 10 box) , praised in reverse macro because of this function, have a lens manual aperture ring allowing to easily manually set the aperture for each shot. Cherry on the cake, you can use extension tube on that system, increasing the maginifaction by the extension tube ratio (by the way, extension tubes are not extenders, they are cheap, just an empty piece of plastic). Well done it can bring other worldy images but good bye light, ease of focus and depth of field at this level… Thank you for your great, informative video and beautiful images.

  • Frank Livermore says:

    What a great video on macro photography…loved it! Watched it twice actually. Top-notch quality for those getting into photography and macro.

  • Jimmie Aleshire says:

    Loved this video. Very well done. Thanks for not disturbing the subjects habitat. Keep it real

  • Larrythebassman says:

    Excellent data… great library 📚 to reflect upon ………… 👍✨ most IMPORTANTLY , THANKS FOR LOOKING OUT For the SMALLER LIFEFORMS ON THE PLANET 🌍

  • bassplayer60 says:

    Thanks Neil! I know you know your stuff…but dang you talk so fast…I will have to rewind…haha 😉

  • Peter Bowles says:

    Neil, I´d like to congratulate you on this video as it is extremely informative, easy to understand and of great beauty. I shoot with a Canon crop sensor (I have no plans to change to a full frame) and the world of macro photography intrigues me. I feel particularly drawn to insects . As I live in Colombia – one of the mose biodiverse countries on the planet, they are not exactly in short supply! I would like to ask you if , given the crop factor, the Canon EFS 60mm marcro lens has a long enough focal length for this purpose. Also, I have heard about the pros and cons of ring lights for macro phototography (some people say they produce a dull, one-dimencional result), and would again like to ask your opinion on this. Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my questions.

  • TheChaosilator says:

    What an extremely well produced video. Great editing. Great shots in between. Very clear explanation. This was very engaging and a complete joy to watch.

  • Hatem Bitar says:

    Best video of macro I've ever watched. Subscribed with pleasure!

  • Ilija Dadasovic says:

    Thank you for this tutorial 🙂 Excellent work

  • Mario Quiroz says:

    Which camera you recommend for macro photos?

  • Lau Bjerno says:

    "Difused"?? It's "diffused", man! First syllable pronounced as in "diffraction".

  • Peter Todd says:

    what a fantastic video it is a pitty there is very little frogs left because there
    are so beuatiful. you are 100 per cent that cutting grass or shribes just to get there perfect photo. try moving to one side, or moving a few inches to the left or the right. this will help to ballance of the forrest. this will help keep this natures ballance. if doing your photos will be great. and have a great day.

  • SC Lannom says:

    Great Video dude!! Subscribed — Keep making videos!!! I dig everything you're doing.

  • Dave Hopkins says:

    Well done! Many thanks for the great tutorial.

  • Hüseyin AKAY says:

    Hi

  • Groucherino says:

    Brilliant as usual! Well said regarding ethics. A love of nature and the joy of capturing it in images should automatically guarantee the photographer shows respect for his subject and leaves it totally undisturbed. Anything less should be completely unacceptable. I personally even worry regarding that short blast of flash? Is it so brief as not to be an issue? To a tiny insect it must be quite dramatic but I know I'm in a minority on this! Some fantastic advice in your video and very well explained. Thanks!

  • Alin Pfau says:

    Hi! Brilliant video! Thanks for the hard work again! Definitely unique channel!

  • Sam Laister says:

    Super engaging Neil, expertly presented for a rookie such as myself

  • Sue Leonard Photography says:

    very interesting video.

  • Andy Mckay says:

    Wow, best macro video i've seen on youtube so far! New sub! 🙂

    Question: I'm interested in the Sony 90mm 2.8 macro…but i've seen people using wide angle lenses on a reverse mount. Which would you prefer?

  • Edgar Hernandez says:

    Lots of respect for saying that last part. You are an observer as a photographer in nature.

  • Zegeebwah says:

    10 star video

  • Dirty Shoes Adventures says:

    learned quiet a bit,,,thank you!

  • Brannon Evans says:

    80 people gave this a thumbs down? Really!

  • PIPPO-10 says:

    Your last point about disturbing nature. It’s exactly what the BBC and David Attenborough do, they have no ethics.

  • J Cooper says:

    You have to adjust the sound level in the video, music level much too loud and voice level too low.

  • Chitrasthala says:

    Excellent in every sense!!! Perfect presentation! Can't be better than this 🙂

  • Chosen Idea says:

    Nice work.

  • Rajdeep Pandit says:

    And here i go to buy first macro lens.

  • GGEZPRO says:

    What camera and lens are you using?

  • Denise Lisboa says:

    Awesome video! Easy to understand, very straight foward and visually pleasing (besides the spiders but well thats my problem hahah)
    Also 10/10 pupper

  • Jacob Rajan says:

    Would give 10🌟s for content, presentation, passion….gr8 video.

  • Saorsa Travels says:

    One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen.
    Job well done.
    I’m now a subscriber.

  • Whiskeymovie says:

    Awesome video….thank you so much….GREAT information…and a FANTASTIC message!! Cheers!!

  • Nick Ruggiero says:

    Hi, which wireless transmitter are you using for the flash? Ty

  • bgovan64 says:

    What is the ratio of a 1:1 lens using aps-c sensor?

  • Kevin Elsby says:

    Extremely good video, covering many aspects of macro photography. A very important and neglected message at the end in terms of respecting the subject and the environment. I discovered your site by chance and am delighted I found you.

  • Iñaki Espinosa says:

    Incredible video ! Subscribbed !

  • SAURAV says:

    Extremely well explained. One of the best photography related videos i have seen. Keep up the good work

  • Atal Gyawali says:

    What ! this guy carries a measuring tape and a ruler in his pocket, like seriously but to be honest that footage looks beautiful.

  • Vimal Krishna says:

    The only person that mentions that wide-angle lens also has larger depth of field. People just talk about aperture (higher f stop).
    It is a very good video that gives quite useful information and I learned from it.
    One can also add Macro lens up to 4X magnification. I use up to 10x.
    You might have shown the ring flash or that setup.

  • Lawrence Rodriguez says:

    Does this video apply to me if I take pictures of Hot Wheels toy cars, Legos, small figurines, small statues, Amiibos, etc? Is taking pictures of those things considered macro photography?

  • Debi Paikaray says:

    What a great video.. 👍👌

  • Binesh Balakrishnan says:

    Fantastic video.

  • robwas says:

    Excellent video, that last part about ethics was golden.

  • Shawn Grant says:

    I put all of my subjects in the refrigerator/freezer first. Please contact me for any child portraiture work you might need.

  • Rachel S says:

    I'm just starting out in photography and your video was super helpful since I've been getting interested in macro photography! Thanks so much for making this helpful video!! your pictures are beautiful too!!!

  • Muriel Farmer says:

    This is an incredible introduction video to Macro!! I really like how you explained magnification and depth of field with the help of cool visuals. Quick question have you ever had a bug, or frog jump onto your camera while videotaping or shooting? Are there any photos of a frog jumping right onto your lens?

  • Davi Magalhães says:

    Amazing video. Thank you so much.

  • Ondřej Hons says:

    Loved that ending : ]

  • Raymond Fowler says:

    K

  • Short Escape says:

    I want to thank you for the video. I'm new in photography and considering to focusing on macro photography. Although I haven't had a macro lenses yet, it's a good thing to learn more about it before I get the lens. And I really love your closing statement about being respectful to the universe… 😊👍👏
    That's what makes me click the like and subscribe buttons

  • Dave P says:

    Cool video, thanks. Just picked up the Sony 30mm 1:1 for my A6000. It's a whole new world of photography from what I'm used to.

  • FranktheDachshund says:

    Great video, excellent demos and visual aids, concisely covered the macro field. Thumbs up for the closing remarks.

  • QUARTERBAT says:

    Best one I've seen so far on macro photography

  • A Geary says:

    Start of video is Endor in Star wars…………..

  • Nas Mohamed says:

    Thanks for the superb video. When do u use auto focus for macro photography.

  • Ecolexotic says:

    awesome video!!

  • Colin D says:

    Ugh off leash dog in a natural area. Good way to scare off wildlife for days

  • Photography Mentor - Vishal Diwan says:

    Excellent 👍👍 Keep them coming…

  • danksouls says:

    Great tutorial, any recommendations on a decent, but small and portable macro tripod for insects and flowers, which has a variety of leg position options/can get down to ground level etc?
    Would I have to buy the head seperately to the legs or is there any good ready-made ones I could look at? Cheers

  • Real Badman says:

    Mr. Neil Fisher, I'm compelled to leave a comment. Your video is excellent. I was going to ask you to share your views on focus stacking. However, I can see how this video negates the need for it, unless academic entomology is the goal. Thank you
    *Nods in agreement with Martin Zero.

    Edit: I loved the seamless inclusion of 2D graphics used to illustrate focal length and depth of field.

  • Joe Jennings says:

    Terrific video, just the info I was looking for 🙂

  • Reza Esfahani says:

    the closing comment made me subscribe. I'm glad I found this channel

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *