Engine Building Part 12 – Installing an Edelbrock Performer Dual Plane Intake Manifold SBC 350

Engine Building Part 12 - Installing an Edelbrock Performer Dual Plane Intake Manifold SBC 350



garage floors time to install our intake manifold and this is a dual plane Edelbrock Performer EPS manifold now before I put this on before I put on almost every manifold like powder-coated and there's a couple things you can do the reason I powder-coated is to make it easy to clean if you've ever used the raw aluminum intake you know that if you can oil either grease on it it's impossible to clean or it's impossible to keep it looking clean so I power coat it this is powder coated with Eastwood's powder it's called OEM wheels Sparkle silver or something I'll put the number up here so you know what number is it looks really close to aluminum if you look look at this it it looks like just a cast aluminum manifold so the power matches pretty good the other thing you could do is if you want you can just you could be blast to wash it down and put a clear eyed but if you clear put a clear over Illume it tends to turn a little white which is what I don't like to do that which is why I use this color now I don't put it on really thick I missed it on here just to get a nice even coat it seals the pores it makes the surface real easy to clean let's fit on top of the engine block you can get a look at the power coating then we can see how it fits now I'll just sit someplace here I line up my bolt holes in front and back I think a quick look down and make sure that they're actually in there and this is kind of what I'm looking for looking for my clearance on the front and the back and it's really pretty close I mean it's pretty tight in there right now so I put a gasket on there we'll see how it races up so what I'll do is first I'll put in I'll put on the intake gaskets now when you put in your intake gaskets take a look you want to make sure just like the head gaskets this one is actually marked this side up it says this side up on this one and if I look at both of them put them both this side up and I hold them together they are exactly symmetrical so one side doesn't matter over the other so I'm just gonna set these in place real quick like that and I want to sit my intake manifold and I'll see how that fits now see it looks like on the bottom okay bolt holes lined up it fits pretty good it's not rocking back and forth so it's not warped and the gap on the back in the front looks like it's about the Nathe of an inch so I'm gonna lift this back off and I'm gonna put on the end gaskets and the end gaskets that come with the the set look like they're about the right thickness the nice thing I like about this is they got these little nubs on the bottom and they line up with the nubs in the hole on the block so I'm going to take these guys to the side for a second and I'll put these in and those nubs kind of hold it in place I'll do it both on the front and back like that now these gaskets on the front the back you can see I'll lift one of these up well it's really close you can see there's a gap there that's where the that's where the gasket to sit the side gas get to sit in there so you put this here put those on and the side gasket has this tab right here which fits in that slot and when you sit those in there and front and back and lifts it up and it puts it the bolt holes right at the perfect height so let's let's test this this test fit that and well now listen to manifold in again see how it fits okay the bolt holes still line up nice and straight does it wobble and you know that that fits really well if it's really well with the standard gaskets so I think instead of putting a beetus of a sealer in the front and back like you usually do you could take your and put a big bead on the front and back I'm gonna use the gaskets that came with it they fit nice so let me take this off and we'll put the gaskets on before I put any sealer on there just want to wipe this down after you run the oil pump sometimes oil splashes up there on the cylinder head or on the China wall on both front and back peony oil in there make sure you clean that off also you want to make sure that the gas is going to seal in the corner between the cylinder head in the block so that's where I want to put just a little bit more I'm just gonna run a small bead just around the center here to make sure I get a seal and again in the corner those are the front back the same way I still have my my oil gauge hooked up here my oil pressure gauge and as you can see I got an even coating of oil throughout the entire oil the lifter Valley here a lot of oil I ran the oil pump for a couple of minutes to make sure I had plenty of oil throughout the entire engine if your engine has been sitting a while which meaning you put it together and it's been sitting this is your last chance to put down your your tool the tool in there for the oil pump run your oil pump to make sure that you have good oil throughout the entire engine it's a good time to do that I'm just gonna sit these in here run back and you don't need a whole ton here just to make sure I have the corners gonna seal the corners again for the gasket I'll just run us a real small bead around the top a bomb you don't want to put a ton in there again you're not trying to glue these things together you're just trying to create a seal this is under a slight vacuum so if anything you're going to pull air in there should be no pressure get the corners in here that's where the gas is here to come together and I'll just lower on the water jackets here just a little bit around the intake openings just a little bit you don't need a lot now just repeat make sure we got this this side up goes the correct way align the tabs with the gasket sit in place aligning the bolt holes and the ports in the head this side up goes this way all right just like the head bolts the bolts in the middle here these are through holes that go into the Center for the valley pan so you can put a little sealer in there just to make sure the bolts seal you don't get any oil come through just slip the manifold in place to be a little more careful when you have the sealer on there so you don't move anything around and just set it down straight and I think I put my bolts mises nice twelve point home bolts here for my intake manifold now until I run this on the dyno I'm not gonna have all these brackets there's all kinds of brackets that go on here for the lift bracket and there's brackets over here for the wires for the wiring harness but I'm not gonna put those on right now I'm just gonna put the bolts in and run it down and I want to get it running and then after that I can put these brackets on now you just follow the torque sequence and three equal stage is up to 25 foot-pounds follow the crisscross pattern fine about 25 foot-pounds a lot of people have asked about using an extension for torquing and I think I mentioned this before when you're going to a low torque like 25 foot-pounds like this you're not really going to twist or rotate a steel shaft like that it takes a lot to twist something like this so you're not really going to screw up your torque a lot but you want ideally ideally I should have the socket that's close to the torque wrench as possible so yes you should have it as short as possible but just to show you I'll retort this even though I torqued it with the extension and it moved a little bit but it's not going to move a lot but I go through one last time 25 foot-pounds and we're all done and when you finish light to go around clean up just to make sure I don't have any error TV or any gasket material see right here in the front gaskets squished out now I'm gonna take all these I back off take a look and see what happened there it might be too small I might just have to run a bead of sealer in there and go without that gasket see why that squished out as soon as I loosen it up you can see went back in so that gasket is too thick so let me pull this back off and now I'll have to start from scratch you gotta clean it all off take this off clean it and reinstall now if it happens you don't work get all worked up about it just taking everything apart clean it off nice and neat realign it and go with the bead instead of the gasket when you do the shower on the risk of putting too much on and then you can clean up the outside but you can't necessarily clean up the inside so you just want to put just about enough on there take this of the gasket that was on there which was about eighth of an inch he's got to make sure you get in the corners and then we'll set it on you don't get worked up you just fix it and keep moving okay I'll set this one in place again lining up the holes now the difference says I have the intake met out of the gasket on the heads first and now I will start to push down and I will look up each end to make sure have enough at each end now I can put my bolts in remembering to put the sealant on the inner bolts to make sure if you don't get an oil leak here's where it's a little different for cast-iron heads it's 30 foot pounds and for aluminum heads it's only 25 I can finish this up the second time there we go so now our question is why did that gasket swish out of the front one probably would have squished out of the back too now some people say well if you didn't put any a sealer on there it would have been slippery and it wouldn't have smushed out maybe maybe if you let it dry it would stay in place maybe but the fact that matter is if that gasket that rubber gasket is over compressed and the engine heats up it's gonna squish out anyway over time whether you have sealer on there or not but this would actually happen if you look at the engine block cylinder heads an intake manifold when I had if I drew a mat of line right here so we know that this where that gasket set was this this long right here what I did was when I had that block machine you have the heads taken down so now you have your heads taken down a certain amount over exaggerate a little bit just so you can see so now instead of that front being this long hits I'll do them right here now it's this long so a shorter and since a shorter like that that the manifold is gonna get pulled closer because now the heads are sitting closer the heads will be going this direction that has to be closer like that and the bolt holes for the manifold will be lower so it's going to pull the man full down lower so I have less gap between the manifold and the China wall on the front and back for that gasket to fit that's probably why it switched out what happened in the front in the back but this good thing that happened now because if it didn't happen now it would have happened eventually so sometimes things don't go exactly as planned but it's good to have it happen while you're doing it before you put the engine in and don't run into a problem later on like we got that fixed I'm confident we're all sealed up and ready to go well then with the intake manifold and now we can work on our Holley sniper EFI system thanks for stopping by peace garage [Applause]

43 Comments

  • Jaime Cervantes says:

    I wish Pete was my neighbor 🤨🤔

  • Campbase says:

    Thanks Pete, I got several great "take-a-ways" from your video.

  • Stephan Trevino says:

    Can you sand blast a aluminum intake top bottom and sides ?

  • yeshbuds says:

    Will a 1405 carb bolt right to the intake or do i need adaptor or spacer?

  • Brenton K says:

    Do yourself a favour, chuck those end seals in the Bin that go across the valley China wall underneath each end of the intake manifold. Use only a bead of sealant across there.

  • Billy Ferguson says:

    Pete another great video sir hey Pete I have one question when you started torquing the bolts you had a message flash on the screen that said universal joints will affect the torque?? What do you mean by that ?? As always thank you sir

  • Bruiser says:

    What the others said, throw the end seals in the trash, RTV only never any shifting or leaks. And no need to place RTV on the heads, that's what the gasket is for!

  • Crash Carson says:

    Throw the black rubber gaskets in garbage. They will push out an leak.. Use RTV only. An Do NOt put RTV ON THE INTAKE RUNNERS. THAT'S A NO NO.!!!!!! U have a gasket. Why put RTV on the intake gasket.

  • Jerry Neal says:

    I'm performing this same project for a corvette. I don't have much hood clearance and plan to use the Holly Sniper EFI. Do you know the exact model of this intake?

  • Eric Dickman says:

    It says no end gaskets only 1/4 inch rtv only

  • Ann Ferguson says:

    Great video sir. I have to put the same intake onto a 350 engine my friend bought the MSD EFI KIT. do you have any recommendations on anything besides what they tell you in the instructions?? Return fuel line? Removing springs from the distributor? The truck 1986 Chevy. With 700R4. They put a cam in it when he bought it but I’m not for sure which one. The truck belongs to a really good friend of mine he don’t have any kids or anything and I just want to make sure that I do the best job I can do when installing this kit!! Thank you sir!!

  • p51bombay says:

    What gasket set is that you used?

  • Air Force Veteran says:

    Isn't it a bad idea to remove bolts to install brackets after the gaskets have been torqued and the RTV has dried?

  • Arturo es chistoso Cervantes says:

    sick better 572 chevy big block

  • Av8tore71 says:

    Since you used an extension when you torqued the intake did you use a conversion??

  • John Bang says:

    Hi, I have a 95 Chevy Suburban K1500 4×4 with Petrol TBI 350 engine. I want a little more response and hp. This is a daily day's car. Which Intake Manifold you can recommend to get the most out of your engine. Can I upgrade the TBI system. what about camshaft.

  • Warren Stephens says:

    Most people would have edited out the gasket fail and just put "I never use the supplied gasket, I just use silicon" or "I just use silicon and heres why" showing the gasket pouched out. 
    You just came up a couple more notches in my book for being honest and human because I've had this happen to me many times. Honestly the only way I've ever gotten those rubber gaskets to work is to silicon them on the bottom (only) as you did and give it a few hours (or the next day) for the silicon to set up and then continue as you did. I wished I stayed as calm as you do……:-)

  • darthvader4hire says:

    dad had an engine shop back in the day…GM actually STOPPED using those manifold to block gaskets and used a bead of dope instead. they used an orange color with an X mark thru and thru the sealed surface.

  • TheJhaley12 says:

    Can you tell me what size the temperature sensor input is on this manifold? Thanks.

  • john avery says:

    Thank you for the very informative videos. I don't know a lot about engines but you cleared up a lot for a novice.

  • jerry richter says:

    perfect pete like always

  • Oz Media says:

    This is where RTFM comes into play. The instructions provided with Edelbrock manifolds say not to use end gaskets, just use RTV.
    Mr.Gasket and FelPro kits include the end gaskets but the manifold specific Edelbrock 2701 kit, just has side gaskets and includes a small tube of RTV. Rubber gaskets seem to always slip and leak.
    From Edlebrock installation instructions: Do not use cork or rubber end seals. Use RTV silicone sealer instead. Apply a ¼" high bead across each block end seal surface,overlapping the intake gasket at the four corners. This method will eliminate end seal slippage.

  • Ruben Esquivel says:

    Cool instructions Pete. I'm about to overhaul a 4.0 Bosch engine out of a 1999 Range Rover. I will watch your videos a couple more times. So I make the Right plan on.to have everything I need .This will be my first build .Your videos give me the confidence to tackle it.Any advise you got will be grateful.thank you for your time!

  • MrMrsregor says:

    will red hi-temp rtv work for the intake ? or do i need to order something else and wait ?

  • John P says:

    outstanding work with the silicone Mr Pete. I end up looking like a 3 year old even after I've just looked at the stuff

  • cordelmar says:

    I have a few questions. Can i use the aluminum manifold on a boat engine??, i heard that the boat with one forward gear produces more pressure? can the aluminum take that pressure? thank you.

  • STEF Barnard says:

    Yo Pieter How Much Engines Have You Built In Your Life Time, Cause You Should Know Right By Now That Those Rubber Gaskets Are Chit And CAN Kinda Wind U Up For Taking The Bloody Intake Off Mate. P.S. I'd Guese Probably You're 6th Sbc

  • Deonte and Rachel Robinson says:

    does the manifold ports have to be the same as the blocks? in other words i have a 429 bb and want to put a edelbrock manifold on part #2166 . the ports on the manifold are round and the ports on my engine block are square. Does that matter? if not what kind of gasket would be recommended?

  • Edward Grabinsky says:

    Pete your the man. Thanks for providing so much awesome content.

  • Rob Crissinger says:

    And now you know why you always toss those gaakets.
    Done right the first time would have saved you a bunch of wasted time.

  • da teatorjr says:

    China wall gaskets HaHaHaHa Powder coat color looks great.

  • Nick Barber says:

    Pete, you're like the Bob Ross of applying caulk.

  • Nick Barber says:

    Next time you powder coat something can you do a video on that?

  • Kyne Barrett says:

    I like your videos because if something doesn’t go to plan it’s not edited out, it’s left in to teach others what to do (or what not to do). Great video as always!

  • kaffetrakter says:

    Can you rebuild a bmw straight 6 engine? Like the s38b38, it is a very rare and powerful engine used in some of the bmw e34 m5's.

  • Lime says:

    Is this for all engines, Straight 4's put some right stuff around the intake ports?

  • WildWestHVAC says:

    Never used those gaskets before, but I really do how you didn't edit out that part and showed what can happen! Excellent video as always Pete!

  • John D says:

    Just the video I needed on a Saturday night while I eat this deer vegetable soup.

  • beesplace620 says:

    I used those front and rear manifold gaskets on my sbc. Last weekend my neighbour pointed out that the front gasket looks like it’s pushed out? After looking closer, not only did it push out, but it split. Now I have to go back and reinstall the intake manifold. Lesson learned, and I won’t be using those black rubber gaskets again.

  • tjhamer3 says:

    great video Pete. I have never liked those gaskets. But having said that i have made lots of money fixing that leak the way you did. Great stuff Pete

  • John says:

    Man, you laid that sealant on the heads like a surgeon. Almost as if you've done it before. 😉

  • Melvin Tucker says:

    Hey Pete does it make a difference if the tough stuff is black or gray when putting the intake manifold on ? Great video !!!

  • 76_corvette says:

    Very good gasket explanation!

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