Histogram Photography Tutorial – Using Olympus Episode 1

Histogram Photography Tutorial – Using Olympus Episode 1

– In this video, I will
tell you how you can use the histogram to your advantage
to get the right exposure. (bright music) Hi. I am Peter Forsgard, an Olympus Visionary
from Helsinki, Finland. Do not rely on the LCD or the viewfinder to determine the right exposure. Not even the light meter in
your camera is the one to trust. Using the histogram is the right way. It’s a very powerful tool to
determine the right exposure. In mirrorless cameras, you
can set the info on the LCD and the viewfinder so
that you see the histogram before you even make the image. In Olympus cameras, you can find it in the Info Settings menu. From LV-Info choose,
for example, Custom 1, and choose the histogram to be active. Now you can toggle the info
you see in the viewfinder and the LCD with the Info
button on your Olympus. There is a link in the
description of this video where you can find info where to find it in your own Olympus camera. In this example, I have
a Lastolite target, and it shows the logic
of histogram very well. The scene has only three shades of gray: white, mid-grey, and black. As you can see, histogram
only has three mountains: one on the left, one on the
middle and one on the right, and nothing between. On the right side are
the highlight values, and in this case, the white
part of the target, of course. In the middle is the grey, and
in the left are the blacks. The histogram looks
different on every scene, so there is no right histogram. The image is correctly exposed, according to the camera’s light meter. You can see the +0.0 on the LCD. When I increase the light to the scene, you can see the histogram
moving to the right. There will be more info in the highlights when I lighten up the scene. I have not touched the
camera’s exposure values. The camera is in the manual mode. Now I am dimming the light. You can see how the histogram
starts to move to the left when the image gets darker. Now there is more dark areas in the scene. How can all this help to
determine the right exposure? Always make sure that the histogram does not cross the lines
on the left or the right. Of course, there are exceptions
when this is possible. For example, if you have the sun or any other bright light in your picture, or you want to make the blacks
totally black in camera. The more there is room on
the right on the histogram, the more the image is underexposed, and in most cases we do not want that. Increase the exposure in
post will introduce noise, and you are losing image quality. To get the most details in your photo, always try to expose to the right, so that the histogram
is as right as possible without crossing the line on the right. The photo might look very bright, but it’s always possible
to darken the image in post without losing any quality in the image. With Olympus cameras, there
is actually even a better way exposing your images correctly. I made a video about that, so
be sure to watch that video after you have subscribed to my channel. There is more to come. This was the first episode of
my tutorials using Olympus. Thanks for watching, and bye for now. (bright music)


  • Peter Forsgård says:

    Have you found using histogram usefull?

  • sulantoblog says:

    Very good info!

  • golden2300 says:

    Thank you så much Peter! Genius small info. Keep on the good work and vise tips.
    Greetings from a happy Oly user from Denmark

  • jaclu says:

    One thing I rarely see mentioned is that the histogram of at least the OMDs is pretty crap. In well-lit scenes, it works as expected, but if the scene is not well lit, it has severe limitations. You can easily try this if you try to overexpose a scene that is not as well lit as a day scene, at home when the lighting is a bit low for example. No matter how ridiculously high ISO or long shutter time you will use, the live view/EVF will not indicate overexpose. Once you take the shot you will see blown highlights, and after a while you get the feeling for this limitation, you start to notice the point where any increases in exposure just doesn't change the histogram any more, then you are getting close to the limit, but you can often expose almost a full stop more before you actually blow highlights.
    I still enjoy my E-M1 II, but for low light ETTR, you just can't trust it. For normal low light photography, it is not much of an issue, but attempts at controlled overexposure tend to end up as try and error. Peter, have you found any workarounds for this?

  • Furius Doe says:

    Peter ….. if you expose maximum to the right …the RAW files looks overexposed … how can you pull the overexposure down of the RAW file .
    How do you determine how much you have to pull it down and what software do you use for that and which regulators …can you make a video of that please .
    Kind regards Henk

  • DDRandDSLover says:

    Very easy to understand, thank you!

  • Maria Colls says:

    I highly recommend subscribing to Peter's channel. I've subscribed to a few photography channels. All to often to listen to good advice but they're vague on the process of execution. It's almost like they don't want to give anything away. Peter here has been exceedingly helpful, offering specific techniques, like this post, on how to improve your game. If you own a Olympus? It's a no brainer.

  • michael hawkins says:

    Great video all information well explained with efficiency and clarity. All good thank you.

  • Robert Cudlipp says:

    Helpful thanks, but just thought you went too quickly- I am new to the Olympus brand.

  • Liz W says:

    Very, very helpful

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