Intercessor Easy Build + Paint Set Paint-A-Long #1 – Preliminaries & Assembly

Intercessor Easy Build + Paint Set Paint-A-Long #1 – Preliminaries & Assembly


(dramatic music) Hello and welcome back, Sleepy WhatsIt here, and I have another
miniatures video for you. In today’s video I’ll
be doing the first part of a two-part series for a
walkthrough slash tutorial of painting an Ultramarine
Primaris Intercessor using Games Workshop’s
Intercessors + Paint set. If you’re not familiar with these kits, they include a beginner set of paints, a sprue of easy to build models, and a simple brush to get
you started in the hobby. I have previously reviewed
these kits as a line, so I’ll put up a card
now with a link for that, I’ll also put the link
down in the description for the specific kit that
we’re doing in this video. If you already own some of the
paints or models in this kit, it’s probably not worth
it to buy the entire kit just to follow along. Instead I would recommend buying the parts that you’re missing
from the kit to complete it, since this is probably
going to be a bit cheaper. We’ll go over exactly what
comes in the kit in a moment. The reason I’m making these videos is that these kits are
rather short on instructions, and I thought it’d be
worthwhile for people beginning on the hobby to
have kind of a walkthrough to show them how to use
the supplies from the kit to actually complete the
projects depicted on the box. I am not going to claim to be
the best painter in the world or like, teach you how to win
competitions with this kit. At best I’m a journeyman painter, but I do know which end
of the brush to hold and I generally can paint models that I’m happy putting
out on my gaming table. Hopefully I can still
remember what it was like getting started out on the hobby, and be able to help you
avoid some of the pitfalls and things like that, that I
ran into when I got started. This first video will detail
the contents of the box and some of the supplies
that you will need that are not included in the box. This will be followed by
a step by step walkthrough of building and preparing a
single model from the kit. The second video in this series will be the step by step walkthrough
of the actual painting process. During the walkthrough I’ll
place visual markers like this to indicate that this is a
point to pause in the video and work on the model on your own. I will also include in the description, time stamps for each of these steps so that you can easily jump
between them if you need to. The specific model that we’ll be painting is the Sergeant model from the kit, as it includes the same basic components that need to be painted
as the other two models as well as the exposed head. So let’s get into it. Now moving on to the
supplies that we’ll be using. First I’ll be going
through contents of the box and then mentioning some of the tools that we should have on
hand that aren’t included. Looking at the box briefly here, we can see the limited
instructions that are provided for how to paint and assemble the models. So the first thing we have
here is the grey plastic sprue with the three Primaris models on it. And next we have the starter
brush that we’re supplied with. This brush isn’t that great, but it does get the job
done for this project. These here are three 32 mm bases that we’ll be placing the models on. Up next are the six pots of
paints that we’ve been given. First here, we have Abaddon Black, which will be the undercoat
for the entire model. If you have an older version of this kit you may have Imperial Primer instead, it’ll do the same basic job. Next is Bugman’s Glow, which is the flesh tone
that we’ll be using. This is followed by our
metallic accent paint, Balthasar Gold, which is a
dark orangey-gold metal colour that we’ll use for things
like the chest emblem. Our fourth pot is Macragge Blue, which will be the primary
colour on these models, and what distinguishes
them as Ultramarines, as opposed to some other
Space Marine chapter. Our penultimate pot is our
shade, Agrax Earthshade. This comes in a smaller pot than you would normally
be buying in a store, but it’s more than
enough for this project. And finally we have our basing material, Armageddon Dust. If you don’t have this paint,
or don’t like the colour of it if you’re putting your
kit together yourself, feel free to use a different texture paste for finishing off the
base on these models. Now that we have covered
what we’re supplied with, let’s discuss what’s missing. So the first thing that we need is a set of plastic clippers. GW and other manufacturers produce these and they should be readily available at your friendly local Game store. Up next is a bog-standard hobby knife, this is available both in
GW and non-GW versions. We will be using it for
cleaning up the models before painting, but it shouldn’t be used for removing the models from the sprues, that’s what the clippers are for. You may have noticed that, though there are GW-specific versions of these tools available,
I’m not using them. This is because, though the GW
ones are totally serviceable, I often find them to be
a little bit more pricey for what they are, and tend
to use other brands of them. You will need some sort
of container for water that you don’t mind getting
gunked up with paint. I use old sour cream containers, but basically any type of
vessel that holds water is fine. Then we have a standard issue piece of paper towel from the kitchen, for wiping off excess paint onto. Some people sort of use a
kitchen sponge for this. Here we have a dry palette, this is just a surface
that we can put paint on and mix it with water,
and things like that. GW produces palette
paper for this purpose, and I know that a number
of people use things like a piece of tile or old plates, basically any type of non-porous surface that you can put paint on and you don’t mind it getting paint on it, should work for this. If you’re looking for these, craft and art stores
should sell a whole bunch of these cheap plastic
ones at a low price. Here is some superglue, AKA CA glue, which isn’t essential, given
that these are push-fit models, but can be useful at times
to ensure things are secure and not going to move around on you. As an alternative, for the
more advanced model maker, you do have the option
of using plastic cement to fuse parts together. I personally like using this to remove seams on push-fit models, but again, it shouldn’t be
essential that you have this. And finally, we have a painting handle. This one is the Citadel-specific one, I find it actually quite ergonomic, but again, not essential
that it be GW-specific. But it is, I recommend to
you that you have something that you can fix your model to, so that you’re not worrying about potentially touching the
paint while it’s still wet, and just general ergonomics
for working with it. A common solution that people use is something like a pill
bottle, or a drink lid, with a blob of sticky tack on it, or double-sided tape to stick it down. There’s also a number of
other manufactured options that are available. Now that we’ve gone over our tools, let’s move on to removing the
model parts from the sprue. On the sprue here, you can
see that there are numbers for each of the parts. In most GW kits there will
be a set of instructions that will have graphics
labelled with these numbers. These kits don’t come
with full instructions but do have some instructions
for a single model on the box. Once you’ve assembled one model it’s pretty clear, with
what’s left on the sprue, which parts go for which models though. Since we’re building the Sergeant model we will need to remove pieces 1 through 5 from the sprue. When working with our sprue cutters you want to keep the
flat side of the cutters towards the piece that we’re removing. As you can see here, there is
a clearly notched V-ed side which is what we want pointing
away from the model part. This is because when cutting with clippers there will be a small pinch on the plastic that will damage it a bit, which will be happening
on the notched side. So to actually cut out a piece we’re going to place the
cutter flush to the model piece on the little narrow join
between the piece and the sprue, and then just snip right through it. After snipping, with a single join piece, it should be trivial to remove the piece or it will actually
just fall off the sprue. For multi-join pieces we will have to cut through all of the joins before we attempt to remove
the piece from the frame. You should not need to twist or apply significant amounts of pressure to remove the piece. If you find that you are, I would double-check that
all of the cuts on the joins are all of the way through. You can now pause the video while you go and cut out all the pieces for the model that we’ll be building. Now that you have all
the pieces of the model removed from the sprue, you can see that there’s some patches from where you cut the
joins with the sprue. This is where our hobby
knife comes in handy for performing cleanup. For significant masses of extra material, our hobby knife can be
slid along the surface to just cut them right off. For more subtle issues,
like here on the helmet, instead of cutting the material away, we can scrape the edge of
the knife across the surface to smooth things out a bit. When doing this be
careful to not flatten out the curved surface that you’re working on. There are curved blades that can be used to make some of these
situations a bit easier. Beyond the rough patches from
cutting away from the sprue, there may also be, what
are known as mould lines or flashing on the model. This is excess material on the model from non-perfect fitting of
the mould pieces together during the casting process. These can be removed using
the same methods as before if you so desire. You may now pause the video while you go and clean up your model
parts before assembling. Now that we have all the pieces cleaned up we can start assembling. The first stage of assembly will be put the two body halves
together with the head. Assembling these three pieces will probably be the most
complex step of this process. The technique that I use for this is to start by loosely connecting
the two halves together so that they won’t fall apart, but there’s still space between them to insert the head. I will then place the head into its notch and then press the two halves together. As you’re pressing, you may have to adjust the
head’s rotation if it shifts. But there should be distinct click-crunch feeling when pushing, as the parts fit together
and are fully seated. At this point you may want to use something like plastic cement to seal the seam around the body. If you’re wishing to use
something like CA glue for assembling these models, I would recommend using the
minimal amount necessary, and not putting it into the holes that the posts are going into
or on the posts themselves, but around on the surfaces that
will be contacting together. This is because if you put it in the hole, because of how push-fit models work, there won’t be any space
for the liquid to escape, and what you’ll actually do is prevent the push-fit
from closing completely. Placing the arms on these
models is relatively simple since there are clear posts
for them to attach to. The only difficulty arises from the fact that there may be some
excess material on the posts from cutting them off the sprue. You may actually have to do a little bit of extra cleanup here
if you’re not finding that they’re fitting together correctly. Again as before, if you’re
using glue or cement, make sure you’re not placing the liquid directly on the post or hole, but where the arm is going to be contacting the body around the post. The final part of
assembling the model itself is putting the pack onto
the back of the model. Unlike with the arms, the post is actually on the pack itself and there’s a hole in the body. But it kind of goes together
just like it did with the arms. Now that we have our model assembled it needs to be placed on its base. This is done by inserting
the tab at its feet into the slot on the base. With push-fit models, how
this tab goes into slot is probably the weakest
joint that’s formed, so it kind of is easy to pull them out. So even if you’re not
using glue other places, this is where I’d recommend
putting a little glue just to make sure everything
is holding together. Many painters choose to
partially assemble their models before painting, then finish assembly after they’ve completed painting. This is called sub-assembly painting and is done to make it easier to reach certain parts of the model
during the painting process, but this is more of an advanced technique and kind of beyond the scope of what’s being done in this kit. You can now pause the video and go assemble the model for yourself. Now that we have a fully assembled model we can begin the painting process, which I will be covering in
the follow-up video to this. If everything goes correctly on my end, this follow-up video should be available the day after this
video has been released. I will add a card here for that video once it has been uploaded so you can easily go to it
upon completing this one. Thank you for watching, I hope
that you’ve found this video informative and enjoyable. If you did, please consider
liking, subscribing and sharing, you know, doing all those things
that makes YouTube happy. Other than that, I look forward to seeing
you in the next one. (dramatic music)

2 Comments

  • MsNosis says:

    can one give ten thumbs up on a single video? this video is EXACTLY what I searched for and needed! Very informative video for making an honest descision if 6 colours, as presented in this kit, is indeed enough for a younger player just starting out to be painting their first minis.

    I think, for a newer player, having a limited pallette to work with can be good not only as it is cheaper than buying all colours, but also far less intimidating than having a whole host of various confusing pots and colours.

    Also, this video is great for tutoring how to assemble the miniatures! Ten thumbs up at once!

  • somanynouns says:

    Thanks for letting us know about the stuff we will probably need that isn't included in the kit!

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